What is GHK-Cu (copper peptide)?

Pick up a copper peptide serum and you'll see “GHK-Cu” or “Copper Tripeptide-1” on the label. This guide explains what it is, why it turns a serum blue, what the research does and doesn't tell us, and how to use it. Biolabs Cosmetics makes topical cosmetics only, so this is all about how your skin looks and feels.

In short: GHK-Cu is a small peptide (a chain of three amino acids) bound to copper. On ingredient lists it's called Copper Tripeptide-1. In skincare it's used as a skin-conditioning ingredient. In our formulas it helps skin look smoother and more even, and feel soft and hydrated.

What is GHK-Cu (Copper Tripeptide-1)?

GHK is a tripeptide, a chain of three amino acids: Glycine, Histidine and lysine (one-letter code K). When GHK binds a copper ion, it becomes GHK-Cu.

GHK occurs naturally in the body. It's found in human plasma, saliva and urine, and researchers have studied it since the 1970s (Pickart, Vasquez-Soltero & Margolina, 2015). The GHK-Cu used in cosmetics is made in a lab. The European ingredient database COSMILE lists Copper Tripeptide-1 as synthetic, with the function “skin conditioning”, meaning it helps keep skin in good condition (COSMILE Europe: Copper Tripeptide-1).

Why copper peptides are blue

GHK-Cu is a copper complex, and copper gives it a strong colour. In the lab, purified GHK-Cu forms dark blue-purple crystals (Johnson et al. (Cosmetic Ingredient Review), 2018). Dissolved in a water-based serum, that shows up as a clear blue tint. How deep the blue looks depends on the formula, the amount of GHK-Cu and the bottle. We explain the chemistry in why is copper peptide serum blue?

What GHK-Cu does in skincare

Our GHK-Cu products are designed to:

  • Help skin look smoother and more refined, with a more even-looking texture
  • Soften the look of fine lines and help skin look firmer
  • Leave skin feeling soft, comfortable and hydrated, helped by the hyaluronic acid and glycerine in our serums

Results vary. Copper peptides work best as a steady daily habit alongside sunscreen, not as an overnight fix.

What the research does and doesn't tell us

  • Most of the research is laboratory work. Reviews of GHK-Cu mainly summarise cell, animal and gene-expression studies (Pickart & Margolina, 2018). Lab results don't show what a cream will do on your face.
  • The human cosmetic studies are small. A 2015 review describes three 12-week studies in which women aged around 50 used GHK-Cu face or eye creams. The groups had 41 to 71 women. The review reports improvements in how their skin looked, including the look of fine lines, firmness and clarity (Pickart, Vasquez-Soltero & Margolina, 2015).
  • Read those studies with care. The review cites them as a conference presentation, a university report and a book chapter, not as full journal papers (Pickart, Vasquez-Soltero & Margolina, 2015). Each study also tested its own formula, not ours.
  • Independent reviewers want more data. A dermatology review of topical peptides found that some lack well-designed studies with enough participants, that larger, well-controlled trials are needed, and that how well peptides pass into the skin is still poorly understood (Gorouhi & Maibach, 2009).

Our view: GHK-Cu is a well-established cosmetic ingredient. We describe what it does for the look and feel of skin and don't claim more than the evidence allows.

How to use a GHK-Cu serum or cream

  1. Patch test. Try a new product on a small area before using it on your face.
  2. Serum, in the evening. Apply 2–3 drops to clean, dry skin once daily, preferably at night. Massage into the face and neck until absorbed.
  3. Cream on top. Follow with a moisturiser. The Fragrance-Free Face Cream is designed for once-daily use, preferably in the evening. The Renewal Cream can be used once or twice daily. Use it morning or night, just leave vitamin C out of the routine you use it in.
  4. Sunscreen by day. If you use a cream in the morning, follow with a broad-spectrum sunscreen and leave vitamin C out of that routine.

Avoid the eyes and broken skin, and stop using any product that irritates. For a full morning-and-evening plan, see how to use copper peptides.

Pairing GHK-Cu with other actives

  • Vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid): never layer it with copper peptides. Use your copper peptide products morning or night, just leave vitamin C out of the routine you use them in. In solution, copper speeds up the breakdown (oxidation) of ascorbic acid (Shen et al., 2021), so we keep them in separate routines.
  • Retinol and exfoliating acids: we suggest using them on the nights you skip your copper peptide serum, so you're not layering several strong actives at once.
  • Niacinamide and hyaluronic acid: these already sit alongside GHK-Cu in our formulas. Our face cream contains niacinamide, and both serums contain hyaluronic acid (sodium hyaluronate).

Topical skincare, not supplements or injections

GHK-Cu is also sold online as raw powder and in products not meant for skin. Biolabs Cosmetics sells finished cosmetic products only, for external use on skin, hair and scalp.

Biolabs GHK-Cu products

Frequently asked questions

Is GHK-Cu the same as copper tripeptide-1?

Yes. GHK-Cu is the everyday name and Copper Tripeptide-1 is its standard cosmetic ingredient (INCI) name. Some brands, including us, also write it as “GHK-Cu Copper Peptide” on ingredient lists.

Is GHK-Cu safe to use in skincare?

An independent US expert panel, the Cosmetic Ingredient Review, concluded that copper tripeptide-1 is safe as used in cosmetics at the time of its review. The same report notes that typical use levels then were below 10 ppm, which is lower than the 1–2% in our serums (Johnson et al. (Cosmetic Ingredient Review), 2018). As with any skincare product, patch test before use, keep it away from your eyes and broken skin, and stop if irritation occurs. If you're pregnant or breastfeeding, check with your doctor or pharmacist before you start a new product.

Should I choose a 1% or a 2% GHK-Cu serum?

Choose by routine rather than by number. A higher percentage doesn't automatically mean better results for your skin. The 2% serum is a straightforward GHK-Cu and hyaluronic acid serum. The 1% serum adds SNAP-8 for people who want help softening the look of expression lines.

Can I use GHK-Cu with vitamin C or retinol?

Don't layer them together. Use your copper peptide products morning or night, just leave vitamin C out of the routine you use them in, and use retinol or exfoliating acids on alternate nights. Our routine guide has a sample week.

Why is my GHK-Cu serum blue?

The colour comes from the copper bound to the peptide. It isn't a dye. Read why copper peptide serum is blue for the details.

Does Biolabs sell GHK-Cu capsules or injections?

No. Biolabs Cosmetics sells topical cosmetic products only: serums, creams, a body lotion and hair care, all for external use on skin, hair and scalp.

Further reading

Sources

  1. Pickart L, Vasquez-Soltero JM, Margolina A (2015). BioMed Research International, 2015:648108. doi:10.1155/2015/648108. https://pmc.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/articles/PMC4508379/
  2. Pickart L, Margolina A (2018). International Journal of Molecular Sciences, 19(7):1987. doi:10.3390/ijms19071987. https://pmc.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/articles/PMC6073405/
  3. Gorouhi F, Maibach HI (2009). International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 31(5):327-345. doi:10.1111/j.1468-2494.2009.00490.x. https://doi.org/10.1111/j.1468-2494.2009.00490.x
  4. Johnson W Jr, Bergfeld WF, Belsito DV, Hill RA, et al. (2018). International Journal of Toxicology, 37(3 Suppl):90S-102S. doi:10.1177/1091581818807863. https://www.cir-safety.org/sites/default/files/tripep062014final.pdf
  5. Shen J, Griffiths PT, Campbell SJ, et al. (2021). Scientific Reports, 11:7417. doi:10.1038/s41598-021-86477-8. https://www.nature.com/articles/s41598-021-86477-8
  6. Cosmetics Europe (COSMILE Europe ingredient database) (accessed 2026). COSMILE Europe INCI database (online). https://cosmileeurope.eu/inci/detail/3803/copper-tripeptide-1/